Pacaya Hike near Antigua Guatemala Review: Is It Actually Worth It?

From a slow B*TCH

Every step my legs felt like they were filled with sand, and I didn’t know how much further until we got to the top. Every 10 feet there was a man on a horse asking, “Taxi?” to take you to the top, but I had no cash, and at this moment I so desperately wished I did.

Quick Verdict:

I definitely wouldn’t do this hike on my period again, but I would give it another chance when my body was feeling better. As a certifiable slowpoke, I almost always hate hiking with other people. No matter how many times they tell you, “It’s fine, we can stop along the way,” or “No, I am actually really slow too.” They are almost always lying because I am slower than slow. I would skip the big group hike and pay the extra money to have a private guide so that I could go at my own pace. With that said, it was absolutely worth it, and I am glad I pushed myself to do it.

Hike Overview: What is Pacaya?

Volcán Pacaya is the little sister to Fuego & Acatenango. She is just as stunning and is actively steaming almost constantly but doesn’t give the big eruptions as often as her big siblings. Due to the volcanic rocks being so hot, you can roast marshmallows or even make a pizza on the volcanic rocks.

Volcán Pacaya is the hike for those who are intimidated by Acatenango but still want to get outdoors and experience the beautiful volcanoes that surround Antigua Guatemala. Don’t be fooled by the shorter length because it is still a challenging hike. You are still hiking an active volcano but can’t get as close to the dangerous gas emissions from the cone of the volcano. You stop at the plateau of Pacaya to get a beautiful view.

Pacaya Quick Facts:

• Distance: 3.7 miles
• Hike time: ~2–3 hrs
• Total Tour Time: ~6 hrs
• Elevation Gain: 1,300 ft
• Above sea level: 8,373 ft
• Guides: Required for all hikers
• Landscape & Features:
  • View of Fuego at the top
  • Roasting marshmallows on volcanic rock
  • Optional rental of horses to ride to the top

What It Costs & How to Book

Most tours will pick you up from Antigua and include transportation for the entire tour. The entrance to the park is not included in the cost of your tours. Be sure to bring cash and plan accordingly.

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• Entrance to Park: ~$13/pp must be paid in cash
• Group Tour: $20/pp +
  • Transportation & Hike Guide: $23
  • Transportation, Hike Guide, & Roasted Marshmallow: $29
  • Transportation, Hike Guide, Pizza & Marshmallow: $214
  • Horse Transport: paid in cash and negotiated with the local guides
    • One-way: ~$25–$40
    • The whole way: ~$45–$55
    • Mid-hike rescue: ~$13–$20

We ended up doing the group tour that included the marshmallow roasting midway through the hike. There were approximately 25–30 people in the group with two guides. One led in the front, and one stayed in the back… with me.

If you are a slow hiker

I would recommend booking a private hike so that you can go as slow as you want and take your time without feeling rushed. OR bring enough cash to take the horses all the way up and enjoy the hike. Ultimately it’s all about the experience you want to have. If you are worried about your fitness level and unsure of how you are going to feel, you can do as much as you feel and then take a horse when you feel you are at your limit.

The Actual Hike Experience

Does anybody else have hike anxiety? I have a huge desire to go outside and be in the outdoors and reach the peaks everyone else can. I also hate people having to wait for me, and that’s probably something I have to get over myself. I struggle to believe my body can do what I want it to. I have a history of passing out due to something unknown because doctors have told me, “They don’t see anything wrong with me.” So it’s pretty reassuring. This usually prevents me from training harder due to the fear of getting injured or pushing myself past my limits. Knowing your limits and what your body needs is important.

The night before, I got a sudden visit from Mother Nature herself. I didn’t need to see a volcano erupting because I felt it inside my body. I feel weak, fatigued, and crampy the first few days of my period. Usually the worst time to be doing something physically strenuous. However, when you leave Antigua the next day, and you pre-book this tour, you suck it up and put on your hiking shoes and go.

The day starts by waking up at 5am for a 6am pickup time in a huge bus. They picked us up right at our hotel, and luckily we were the first to get on. Which means we got first pick at where to sit. The drive is a few hours and has beautiful views along the way as the sun rises.

We arrived at the Volcán Pacaya Park and were herded off the bus to our guide, who brought us to a line where we waited to pay for our park entrance. After a quick bathroom break, we gathered by the entrance of the hike. I anxiously looked around at the other hikers, trying to assess if there was anyone else who might also be slow like me. My eyes darted from Merrell hiking boots to Patagonia-branded pants (the ones that zip off into shorts). Damn near half of them looked like park rangers themselves, so I was f*cked. I turned to our hiking guide and innocently asked, “So how hard is this hike?” The corners of his mouth turned up slightly, and he tilted his head as he said, “It’s pretty hard.” I started to think about all the ways I could quickly get out of this situation. Sudden onset food poisoning? Twist my ankle? I took a deep breath and just decided to get over myself. It was only 3.7 miles, and I just had to take it one step at a time.

The first 5–10 minutes weren’t so bad, as they were a gradual climb, and then shit got real. The incline got steep. I couldn’t ever catch my breath because there was no plateau or flat passes. Men on horses kept coming by asking, “Taxi?” I felt singled out. I mean, I don’t blame them… They wanted 250Q to get up to the top, and I only had 50Q, so that wouldn’t get me very far. I glanced back at Jackie, hoping she had a secret stash of cash and she didn’t. These were the last few days of our trip, and we had used up the majority of the cash. As I was huffing and puffing and staring at the ground questioning my decision to do this, I peer up and see the group stopped on a wooden platform. Our guide stopped and showed us a view, and I couldn’t hear anything but my breath. I was desperately trying to get my breath to slow down during this short break. And just like that we started back up again. For the first 20–30 minutes of the hike, I was in the back, but I could see the rest of the group.

“Lungs on fire, but the only way was up.”

The guide in the back was soon in front of me, and the only person who stuck by my side was Jackie. Taylor yelled from up front, “I have 50Q if you need it.” Every step felt like I was lifting a 100 lb anvil with my foot. Around every corner there was another steep climb. At some point I could see our guide up around the corner waiting for us, but I genuinely couldn’t keep going. I didn’t know how much further we had to go. And we were so far behind I was afraid we would be left behind by the big group. I asked one of the men on the horse what he could do for 100Q. He could get me to the top from where we were. I even struggled to get onto the horse. After a few minutes I could feel my heart rate and breath start to come down to a regular pace. I felt guilty for leaving Jackie behind but also for taking the horse in the first place. I should have been able to complete it like everyone else. To my surprise there were just a few more short switchbacks to get to the top. Reaching the plateau and seeing dozens of other people taking pictures was a relief. I looked back, and Jackie was just a few minutes behind me.

Taylor rushed up to me and said, “You made it!” “Yeah, but I cheated, so it doesn’t count.” She responded and said, “Carly, you just barely missed the last little bit. You did a lot; you should be proud of yourself. Plus, you are on your period. We did it!!”

We spent some time at the top taking pictures and walking around for about 20 minutes before we started our descent. Finally, a piece that I would be okay with and able to keep up with the group. Although the descent was easier on my lungs, it wasn’t easier on my knees. Traversing down volcanic rock and bracing yourself is a different kind of hard. We made it to our stopping point for roasting marshmallows. The thing that was motivating me the entire time. I pulled out one of our ham and cheese sandwiches from our backpack and scarfed that down. I thoroughly enjoyed the sticky marshmallow. We continued down the path that got less and less rocky as we went. There were a few “slippery spots” that would benefit from more sturdy shoes and careful walking. But truly not so bad compared to what I endured on the way up.

The sight of the bus was the most beautiful thing I had seen since the volcano. The ride home was mostly silent. I felt grateful and humbled that I went on this hike. Next time, I would pay for a private guide so that I could go as slow as I wanted. Ultimately I hopped on the horse because I didn’t know how much further and didn’t want people to be waiting for me. If I could take my time, I know I could have made it all the way.

We celebrated finishing the hike with big cheeseburgers and fries once we got back to Antigua. Well deserved, if you ask me.

Enjoy the hike, and take one step at a time.

Who This Guide Is For

Volcán Pacaya is the hike for those who are intimidated by Acatenango but still want to get outdoors and experience the beautiful volcanoes that surround Antigua Guatemala.